WEBVTT

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[ VO ] Finding this place is never a problem.

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Zabbaleen, the city of rubbish
collectors, is shrouded by an acrid smell

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that most people would find unbearable.

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This is where waste from
the whole of Cairo is brought.

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There are no soldiers
or police officers here,

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the people live by their own rules,

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and they’re not too happy
to see strangers visiting.

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The region is populated mainly by Coptic
Christians, Egypt’s minority religion.

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Muslims live here too but there’s
no religious conflict in Zabbaleen.

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The dump is a guarantee
of interreligious peace,

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it’s the only local provider
of work and livelihoods.

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ZABBALEEN TRASH TOWN

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[ VO ] Kyrollos Saad is 10.

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He’s spent all of his childhood in the
rubbish collecting city of Zabbaleen.

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But he’s one of the lucky ones.

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Unlike his peers, Kyrollos hasn’t had
to start doing any of the dirty work, yet.

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GERGES SAAD
REFUSE COLLECTOR

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[ Gerges ] I don't let my child do it,

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because my wife works,

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and all the women in my family work, too.

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Typically, children begin to help grown-ups,

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when they are 10-12 years old,

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sometimes even earlier,

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if their family is destitute.

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So you can find children much
younger than mine working here.

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[ VO ] Gerges inherited
this job from his father,

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he was a refuse collector, too.

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They came to Zabbaleen, 45 years ago

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and the recycling techniques have
barely changed in all those years.

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Gerges Saad’s family
collects, sorts and cleans

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several different types of rubbish at a time.

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Typically, the men work
with metal and plastic.

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[ Man ] This machine cleans the plastic.

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And this one grinds it.

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The first one cleans it
and the second grinds it,

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and this one dries it and then
it's ground into powder.

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In the end, we pack it all in
bags and send it to a factory.

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So now this rubbish gets sold to
someone who'll sort it for a second time.

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It will all be recycled,
some of it into plastic spoons.

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This is what they look like.

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Collecting and cleaning
rubbish is a family concern.

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The women play their part,
too.

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They sort the food waste.

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MINA KARAM
GERGES’ NEPHEW

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[ Mina ] We live apart from the rest of the city.

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We're independent of it.

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[ Gerges ] Not everyone thinks poorly of us,

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there are people who respect our work.

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But I understand people who

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think of us with disgust.

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[ Mina ] Our work is exhausting.

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We get very tired after a day's work,

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and we often have problems with our backs.

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Sometimes we carry 50 kg bags,

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up to the fifth floor,

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and then take them back down again,

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and this work saps the strength out of us!

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[ VO ] Shehata El-Mogaddis is one of
the wealthiest people in Zabbaleen.

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He calls himself the Mayor
of the city of rubbish collectors,

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but officially, there is no such position.

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Also, rumour has it that
Shehata personally controls

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the sale of all glassware to recycling facilities,

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which, they say, generates fabulous profit for him.

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There’s a villa with a luxurious
pigeon-loft very close to the dump entrance.

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Shehata never touches the rubbish himself,

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he just manages the process.

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He doesn’t even clean his own house,

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he has a housekeeper for that.

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[ Reporter ] What do you expect from the government?

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[ Shehata ] We need the newest vehicles

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to transport the rubbish from the city to the dump,

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and modern, safe equipment.

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If the government approves
the treatment project,

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it will be very good for rubbish collectors!

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SHEKHATA EL-MOGADDIS
UNOFFICIAL ‘MAYOR’ OF ZABBALEEN

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[ Shehata ] Look, our bodies are full of bacteria.

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We were born of fathers who also
collected rubbish in Zabbaleen.

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Microbes and bacteria from the
dump are already inside us,

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but they only strengthen our
immune system against disease.

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If I was an ordinary citizen,
I wouldn't look like I do now!

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[ Ezzat ] Shehata? He’s my uncle.
[ Correspondent ] It’s a successful story.

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Yes. Because his father
was rich since the beginning.

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90% of the community are poor,
who are the regular garbage collectors,

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who are relying on the garbage which
they collect, sort, sell to recycling.

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EZZAT NAEEM
TEACHER, HISTORIAN

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[ Ezzat ] As you see, families are sorting,
people are compacting paper.

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Hi, Ramon!

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They are compacting the paper
using the electrical compactor.

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We have our own life, we have grocery shops,
we have butchers, coffee shops, as you see.

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Because men, after collecting the garbage,

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have a rest for a while and come to the
coffee shop to drink tea or to smoke shisha.

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Any problem or conflict that’s happening
between each other is resolved internally.

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The big leaders of the families.
Here, we respect the old people.

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So once there is a problem, the old
people have a round table together:

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“No, you should apologise to him”.
 “Yes, I am sorry”, khalas, the problem is finished.

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Never go to the police station, never invite
the police, we don’t like them by the way,

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because they come to make
the problem more higher.

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GERGES SAAD
REFUSE COLLECTOR

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[ Gerges ] Mina has recently had a serious
talk with a guy, our neighbour.

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Then they came to our place,

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and started shooting their guns.

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My brother and I were wounded,

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and had to go to the hospital.

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It was a grave threat for us,

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we were sitting down here when they came.

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We were scared for our children,

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that they could be kidnapped
when they go outside.

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But then we sorted the matter,

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and made peace in the church,

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the boss arrived and we came to a settlement.

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Nothing like that ever happened again!

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[ VO ] The Copts claim to be
among the world’s earliest Christians,

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they believe that their ancestors
is converted when Jesus still lived,

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and since then, they’ve always tried to
resolve problems peacefully, the Christian way.

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[ Gerges ] The Bible says everyone should live in peace,

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that children of God will be alright,

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that people will trust me because of my smile.

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that I won't deceive anyone.

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You can see my love for Jesus,

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when I'm talking to someone.

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They say that if you see a person,

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who is walking and smiling to you,

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then you've met a true Christian!

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[ Kyrollos ] Wait, wait!

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Come kiss the cross!

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You're not supposed to put it in your mouth!

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Let's go! Hurry!

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Mina is letting the birds out!

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[ Mina ] Let out the pigeons!

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They're our pigeons, in the middle!

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Look, look, there, in the middle!

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This is so cool!

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And these are baby birds.

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Look, it’s black and yellow!

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[ Gerges ] You can make a tasty dish of them.

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We eat them with rice!

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Have you tried it?

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All this area, it's full of pigeons, look.

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There are lots of them.

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It's a sport, a hobby.

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It's a hobby for half of a neighborhood.

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[ Kyrollos ] Look!

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Now you can see all our pigeons!

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[ VO ] Gerges Saad’s working
day begins at 3.30 every morning.

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Every Zabbaleen dweller is assigned
a specific part of Egypt’s capital.

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Collecting waste from a
colleague’s territory is strictly taboo.

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All rubbish collectors religiously
observe the unspoken rules.

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[ Gerges ] I do it every day.

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I collect all types of rubbish,

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no matter what: food waste, paper,

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various boxes, bottles, all types of plastic.

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I work every day, except Sunday.

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I collect rubbish from every house I visit,

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and put it all into the vehicle,

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and then we go home.

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I work with my son,

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we help each other.

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Ok, son, let's call it a day.

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[ Ezzat ] Look, each ton of
garbage is generating 5 daily jobs:

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2 are collecting from door
to door, one is transporting,

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and 2 are sorting, so
it’s 5 at the beginning,

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and other 7 indirect jobs, who are
recycling paper, plastic, metal, glass.

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Each ton of garbage of Cairo
is creating 12 jobs every day.

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EZZAT NAEEM
TEACHER, HISTORIAN

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You see, these things are
coming from the garbage.

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It’s also make-up, brands.
This is something for massage.

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[ Camerman ] Do you know for what kind of massage this is?

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[ Ezzat ] I don’t know, she knows..

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She told me to read this carefully. What kind
of massage? Do you know? For ladies or men?

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All these things are in the garbage.

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So they sell such these tiny things and
people go to the market only shouting.

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[ Woman ] Come here, come here!

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Don't steal, or you go to hell!

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Come and buy!

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Old man, come and buy!

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[ Buyer ] This costs 10 pounds?

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But it's broken!

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Give me another price!

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[ Seller ] Four pounds!

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Four pounds!

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Show me the money!

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[ VO ] This is Cairo’s biggest Friday market,

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it’s near the city of Rubbish collectors,

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people come to buy gifts
for their nearest and dearest,

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and anything else that might need at home.

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[ Local ] I ride in a car around the city and shout:

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'Bring your old things here!'

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I've never felt like an important man,

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but President Sisi makes us so.

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Our president is like that!

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Sisi is the man!

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He is, I mean it!

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I earn 2 to 3 million pounds a month!

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What?

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Jokes aside?

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A thousand.

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[ VO ] Kyrollos’s parents don’t buy him toys.

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He can find everything that interests
him in the dump, and that saves money.

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Returning to see Gerges Saad, we meet
the butcher shop owner, Sameer Fatee.

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[ Sameer ] Come here, I'll show you.

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Look!

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And all this…

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This is feed for pigs.

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[ VO ] It’s hard to imagine swine
being kept in a Muslim country

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but the Copts are Christians, and
pork is a staple part of their diet.

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[ Sameer ] I want to say that we don’t have
conflicts between Christians and Muslims.

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Terrorism doesn't stem from here.

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We live together and we do business together.

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We eat and drink together.

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[ Voice ] Most of my neighbours are Christians.

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"You have your religion, and I have mine."

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[ Local resident ] Come here, you'll see them now!

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Pigs are man's friends.

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At the same time, their meat is tasty.

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I slaughter them right here.

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First, we hang them,

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then we bring them down to my shop,

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I have my shop there.

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Look here.

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This is not an Egyptian pig.

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Please note it's a Brazilian one.

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You see, it has a long snout.

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And by this snout you know
that it is a Brazilian breed.

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Before, I worked as a bus driver

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for a travel agency, from 1990,

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and then tourism declined abruptly,

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and I had to switch to this business.

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I've met different people,
when I saw you I knew you were from Russia,

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even though I don't speak a foreign language!

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Russians always look like Russians!

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People should do everything using their wits.

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Look here, mister!

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I weigh the meat before cooking it,

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to estimate how much money I'll make.

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I don't take chances at work!

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It weighs 11 kg.

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Try it!

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So I've mixed it all with spices.

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When it's dark, I'll fire up the grill!

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[ VO ] Not long ago, pork
was banned in Egypt.

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The Muslim Brotherhood parliamentary majority decided
to have all the livestock in the country killed,

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including the Christian
owned pigs of Zabbaleen.

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[ Ezzat ] At that time, Zabbaleen’s rubbish
collectors started to sort the organic in downtown

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and keep it the containers of the multinational
companies in the big streets of Cairo.

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So Cairo was very bad-smelled and dirty.

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It went for 2 years, then revolution
of 21th of January in Egypt.

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Zabbaleen come back again to raise animals.

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If the president out of the
system, or the Prime Minister,

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his deputy or Vice can replace him.

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But if a garbage collector is away from Cairo,

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no one can replace him.

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Cairo will be dying.

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[ VO ] Gerges Saad’s family seldom
eats meat, whether pork or beef:

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only once a week, on Sundays.

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That’s mainly because
it’s such an expensive treat,

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it can costs between 50 and 100 Egyptian
pounds a kilo,

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that’s 5 to 10 dollars.

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[ Man ] How much do you spend on food?

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[ Woman ] We don't count.

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[ Gerges ] We buy various foods.

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It's impossible to say for sure.

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For example, a breakfast for
everyone may cost 10 pounds.

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We make fried eggs and French fries.

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A lunch may cost 20-25 pounds.

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[ Woman ] We eat 3 times a day,

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because we work a lot: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

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We have dinner at 7-8 pm, when we come
back from work, when the work is done.

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Our work is very hard.

00:21:34.01 --> 00:21:36.23
Take us to another country
and we'll leave this place!

00:21:47.08 --> 00:21:49.11
[ VO ] There is a local school in Zabbaleen,

00:21:49.19 --> 00:21:52.19
but not even that can
guarantee Kyrollos an education

00:21:52.19 --> 00:21:56.07
that will allow him to do anything
other than collect and sort rubbish.

00:22:04.12 --> 00:22:07.09
Children study their native
tongue and mathematics,

00:22:07.23 --> 00:22:11.21
but refuse sorting lessons tend
to outweigh all other subjects.

00:22:12.01 --> 00:22:17.09
Since the school opened, only 3 or 4 people
have ever managed to escape from the dump.

00:22:17.12 --> 00:22:22.17
Everyone else has had little
choice but to stay, live and work here.

00:22:24.14 --> 00:22:27.00
MINA KARAM
GERGES’ NEPHEW

00:22:27.02 --> 00:22:31.02
[ Man ] How do you live in such conditions?
[ Mina ] This is our life.

00:22:31.07 --> 00:22:33.08
What can we do?

00:22:34.20 --> 00:22:37.07
God defined our fate, so be it.

00:22:37.12 --> 00:22:41.10
I can show you how we work with
needles and sharp objects.

00:22:42.01 --> 00:22:47.10
[ Man ] Aren't you afraid of getting an infection?
[ Mina ] What to do? We need to eat.

00:22:56.16 --> 00:22:59.00
[ Local resident ] We want to go abroad very much.

00:22:59.05 --> 00:23:01.07
I'm one of these people.

00:23:01.12 --> 00:23:04.14
If I find a job abroad, I'll go there. Any job!

00:23:04.19 --> 00:23:08.02
Do you remember Shnuda,
who was with us earlier?

00:23:08.07 --> 00:23:10.19
A needle this size cut into his hand.

00:23:11.00 --> 00:23:14.21
It pierced his finger to here!
So, his whole body rotted.

00:23:15.01 --> 00:23:18.01
I only pricked my finger in the morning.

00:23:18.06 --> 00:23:19.20
[ Mina ] It's ok!

00:23:20.00 --> 00:23:21.12
[ Local resident ] I pressed the wound,

00:23:21.17 --> 00:23:24.06
there was bleeding and that was it!

00:23:25.21 --> 00:23:27.12
We are animals!

00:23:34.14 --> 00:23:36.07
[ Ezzat ] They were farmers,

00:23:36.08 --> 00:23:39.16
about 70 years ago, left
their land and came here,

00:23:39.17 --> 00:23:41.19
so they don’t have another job.

00:23:41.19 --> 00:23:43.06
That’s why when you tell them,

00:23:43.07 --> 00:23:48.17
this is infection, they say: “No,
we have our good immunity”.

00:23:48.23 --> 00:23:50.17
No, we have health problems.

00:23:50.18 --> 00:23:55.05
More than 42% of the community
are infected with hepatitis B and C.

00:23:55.05 --> 00:23:57.04
We have also a lot of skin diseases.

00:23:57.04 --> 00:24:01.07
We pay a very high price
from our health, from our life.

00:24:01.13 --> 00:24:06.09
The average age of mortality
here is not more than 55 years.

00:24:06.20 --> 00:24:09.10
People are dying so young here.

00:24:24.21 --> 00:24:27.20
[ Man ] Is this your favourite place?
[ Kyrollos ] No.

00:24:28.00 --> 00:24:29.00
[ Cameraman ] Why?

00:24:30.09 --> 00:24:32.18
[ Kyrollos ] Because I may fall from the roof.

00:24:33.05 --> 00:24:35.17
[ Man ] What do you dream of, Kyrollos?

00:24:36.06 --> 00:24:39.10
[ Kyrollos ] I want to be a doctor and leave this place.

00:24:40.13 --> 00:24:43.04
[ Gerges ] I don't want my son to end up like me.

00:24:43.10 --> 00:24:46.07
I want him to have a better life than I do.

00:24:46.12 --> 00:24:48.12
But no work is shameful.

00:24:48.17 --> 00:24:53.00
What's shameful is sitting at home
and living off someone else,

00:24:53.04 --> 00:24:55.10
or begging for alms, or stealing.

00:24:55.15 --> 00:24:59.19
But the Bible says if you work hard,
you'll always have bread.